The choice is mostly about the wash you enjoy. Special Cleansing Gel works into a light lather and rinses off; UltraCalming feels creamier, makes no foam and can be rinsed or wiped away. Both come in the same 8.4 oz size.
8.4 oz / 250 ml
Special Cleansing Gel
This lightweight gel turns into a refreshing lather in wet hands, then rinses away. Dermalogica recommends it for normal, combination and oily skin. It suits a wash-with-water routine, and its lavender, lemon, bergamot and citronella oils are worth checking if you avoid aromatic ingredients.
This creamier gel cleanses without lather and can be rinsed away or lifted off with cotton pads. Dermalogica recommends it for normal, dry and sensitive skin. Panthenol and cetearyl alcohol help explain its different formula, while oat and cucumber add to its botanical blend.
Lather in wet hands; smooth over damp face and throat
Massage over face and neck with fingertips
Remove
Rinse with warm water
Rinse with warm water or remove with dry cotton pads
Makeup
Directions start after PreCleanse
For light makeup; Dermalogica suggests PreCleanse for heavier makeup
Dermalogica recommends
Normal, combination and oily skin
Normal, dry and sensitive skin
Main concern
Oiliness and pores
Dryness, sensitivity and redness
Wash ingredients
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate
Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate in a non-foaming base
Creamy feel
Gel thickened with hydroxyethylcellulose
Cetearyl alcohol helps give the gel/cream body
Featured botanicals
Foaming quillaja bark; lemon balm leaf
Cucumber, raspberry and oat extracts
Lavender
Lavender oil
Lavender flower/leaf/stem extract
Other aromatic plants
Lemon peel, bergamot and citronella oils
Rosemary leaf and lemon fruit extracts
Shared moisture-supporting ingredients
Glycerin and butylene glycol
Glycerin and butylene glycol
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Ingredients explained
See how the cleansers get their different textures and what they share. These are selected ingredients, with a check for each product that contains them.
12 of 12 ingredients shown
DermalogicaSpecial Cleansing Gel
DermalogicaUltraCalming Cleanser
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate
Cleansing surfactant
Helps the gel loosen oil and dirt so they rinse away with water.
✓Contains—Does not contain
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This surfactant is part of Special Cleansing Gel's wash system. Together with other cleansing ingredients, it helps deliver the lather that distinguishes the gel from UltraCalming.
A second surfactant that helps the gel cleanse and build foam.
✓Contains—Does not contain
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Surfactants help water mix with oil and residue so they can be rinsed away. This one also has a foaming role, fitting the gel's lather-and-rinse routine.
The soapbark extract that Dermalogica highlights for natural foaming.
✓Contains—Does not contain
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Quillaja comes from soapbark. Dermalogica points to its natural foaming properties; the gel also uses cleansing surfactants to create its washable lather.
Gives UltraCalming's non-foaming gel/cream body and helps keep it mixed.
—Does not contain✓Contains
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This fatty alcohol thickens and stabilizes creams. It helps explain UltraCalming's creamier texture and is quite different from the fast-evaporating alcohols people often mean by 'alcohol' in skincare.
Attracts water; one of the moisture-supporting ingredients in UltraCalming.
—Does not contain✓Contains
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Panthenol is provitamin B5. Dermalogica highlights its humectant role in this formula, alongside the cleanser's non-foaming texture and rinse-or-wipe routine.
An aromatic oil in Special Cleansing Gel's botanical blend.
✓Contains—Does not contain
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The gel uses lavender oil, while UltraCalming uses lavender flower/leaf/stem extract. They are different preparations of the same plant, so check both products if lavender matters to you.
A lavender botanical in UltraCalming, distinct from the gel's lavender oil.
—Does not contain✓Contains
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Dermalogica includes this extract among UltraCalming's featured botanicals. A dash beside the gel here only means that exact extract is absent; the gel contains lavender oil instead.
Adds to the gel's aromatic botanical blend, with bergamot and citronella oils.
✓Contains—Does not contain
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This is oil from lemon peel. UltraCalming uses a lemon fruit extract instead, so the products' citrus ingredients are different even though both have a lemon-derived component.
An oat-derived skin-conditioning botanical in UltraCalming's blend.
—Does not contain✓Contains
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UltraCalming pairs oat kernel extract with cucumber and raspberry extracts. These are botanical ingredients in the creamier formula, not the agents that make the gel foam.
A skin-conditioning ingredient used in formulas aimed at comfort.
—Does not contain✓Contains
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Bisabolol has skin-conditioning and soothing roles in cosmetics. It fits UltraCalming's comfort-focused formula, alongside panthenol and its non-foaming cleansing base.
This is a selection from Dermalogica's US product pages, not the full formulas or a hands-on test. Formulas can change; check the package if a particular ingredient matters to you.
Choosing and using
Which is better if I want to rinse quickly?
Special Cleansing Gel is the straightforward lather-and-rinse choice. UltraCalming also rinses off, but gives you a wipe-off option when that is more convenient.
Which should I consider for combination skin?
Dermalogica recommends Special Cleansing Gel for combination skin. It is the natural starting point if you enjoy a rinse-off lather; choose by texture as well as a skin-type label.
Does UltraCalming contain no fragrant botanicals?
No. It contains lavender, rosemary and lemon extracts. The gel contains lavender, lemon peel, bergamot and citronella oils. If you avoid a particular plant ingredient, compare the package labels.
What if I wear makeup?
Dermalogica says UltraCalming removes light makeup and recommends PreCleanse for heavier makeup. Both product directions begin after PreCleanse, so keep your existing first-cleanse step for a heavier makeup day.
Based on US manufacturer information, checked 20 October 2026. This is not a hands-on test. Photos are from the brands; ingredient explanations link to their sources. Check the current package for formula changes and the retailer for price, size and availability.