Special Cleansing Gel vs UltraCalming Cleanser

The choice is mostly about the wash you enjoy. Special Cleansing Gel works into a light lather and rinses off; UltraCalming feels creamier, makes no foam and can be rinsed or wiped away. Both come in the same 8.4 oz size.

Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel product bottle

8.4 oz / 250 ml

Special Cleansing Gel

This lightweight gel turns into a refreshing lather in wet hands, then rinses away. Dermalogica recommends it for normal, combination and oily skin. It suits a wash-with-water routine, and its lavender, lemon, bergamot and citronella oils are worth checking if you avoid aromatic ingredients.

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Dermalogica UltraCalming Cleanser product bottle

8.4 oz / 250 ml

UltraCalming Cleanser

This creamier gel cleanses without lather and can be rinsed away or lifted off with cotton pads. Dermalogica recommends it for normal, dry and sensitive skin. Panthenol and cetearyl alcohol help explain its different formula, while oat and cucumber add to its botanical blend.

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Compare details

13 of 13 details shown

Texture

Light gel
Creamy gel

Lather

Foams
Does not foam

Apply

Lather in wet hands; smooth over damp face and throat
Massage over face and neck with fingertips

Remove

Rinse with warm water
Rinse with warm water or remove with dry cotton pads

Makeup

Directions start after PreCleanse
For light makeup; Dermalogica suggests PreCleanse for heavier makeup

Dermalogica recommends

Normal, combination and oily skin
Normal, dry and sensitive skin

Main concern

Oiliness and pores
Dryness, sensitivity and redness

Wash ingredients

Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate
Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate in a non-foaming base

Creamy feel

Gel thickened with hydroxyethylcellulose
Cetearyl alcohol helps give the gel/cream body

Featured botanicals

Foaming quillaja bark; lemon balm leaf
Cucumber, raspberry and oat extracts

Lavender

Lavender oil
Lavender flower/leaf/stem extract

Other aromatic plants

Lemon peel, bergamot and citronella oils
Rosemary leaf and lemon fruit extracts

Shared moisture-supporting ingredients

Glycerin and butylene glycol
Glycerin and butylene glycol

Ingredients explained

See how the cleansers get their different textures and what they share. These are selected ingredients, with a check for each product that contains them.

12 of 12 ingredients shown

Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate

Cleansing surfactant

Helps the gel loosen oil and dirt so they rinse away with water.

ContainsDoes not contain
Read more

This surfactant is part of Special Cleansing Gel's wash system. Together with other cleansing ingredients, it helps deliver the lather that distinguishes the gel from UltraCalming.

Source: Cosmetics Info: Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate

Cleansing surfactant

A second surfactant that helps the gel cleanse and build foam.

ContainsDoes not contain
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Surfactants help water mix with oil and residue so they can be rinsed away. This one also has a foaming role, fitting the gel's lather-and-rinse routine.

Source: COSMILE Europe: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

Quillaja saponaria bark extract

Foaming botanical

The soapbark extract that Dermalogica highlights for natural foaming.

ContainsDoes not contain
Read more

Quillaja comes from soapbark. Dermalogica points to its natural foaming properties; the gel also uses cleansing surfactants to create its washable lather.

Source: Dermalogica: Special Cleansing Gel

Cetearyl alcohol

Fatty alcohol; texture and emulsion support

Gives UltraCalming's non-foaming gel/cream body and helps keep it mixed.

Does not containContains
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This fatty alcohol thickens and stabilizes creams. It helps explain UltraCalming's creamier texture and is quite different from the fast-evaporating alcohols people often mean by 'alcohol' in skincare.

Source: Cosmetics Info: Cetearyl Alcohol

Panthenol

Humectant

Attracts water; one of the moisture-supporting ingredients in UltraCalming.

Does not containContains
Read more

Panthenol is provitamin B5. Dermalogica highlights its humectant role in this formula, alongside the cleanser's non-foaming texture and rinse-or-wipe routine.

Source: Dermalogica: UltraCalming Cleanser key ingredients

Glycerin

Humectant

Attracts water and helps both cleansing formulas retain moisture.

ContainsContains
Read more

Glycerin is a humectant shared by these two cleansers. UltraCalming adds panthenol, but the gel is not without moisture-supporting ingredients.

Source: Cosmetics Info: Glycerin

Butylene glycol

Solvent and humectant

A shared formula ingredient that helps dissolve other ingredients and hold water.

ContainsContains
Read more

Butylene glycol serves as both a solvent and a humectant. Both formulas use it, even though their lather and textures differ.

Source: COSMILE Europe: Butylene Glycol

Lavender oil

Aromatic botanical oil

An aromatic oil in Special Cleansing Gel's botanical blend.

ContainsDoes not contain
Read more

The gel uses lavender oil, while UltraCalming uses lavender flower/leaf/stem extract. They are different preparations of the same plant, so check both products if lavender matters to you.

Source: Dermalogica: Special Cleansing Gel ingredients

Lavender flower/leaf/stem extract

Botanical extract

A lavender botanical in UltraCalming, distinct from the gel's lavender oil.

Does not containContains
Read more

Dermalogica includes this extract among UltraCalming's featured botanicals. A dash beside the gel here only means that exact extract is absent; the gel contains lavender oil instead.

Source: Dermalogica: UltraCalming Cleanser ingredients

Lemon peel oil

Aromatic botanical oil

Adds to the gel's aromatic botanical blend, with bergamot and citronella oils.

ContainsDoes not contain
Read more

This is oil from lemon peel. UltraCalming uses a lemon fruit extract instead, so the products' citrus ingredients are different even though both have a lemon-derived component.

Source: Dermalogica: Special Cleansing Gel ingredients

Oat kernel extract

Botanical extract

An oat-derived skin-conditioning botanical in UltraCalming's blend.

Does not containContains
Read more

UltraCalming pairs oat kernel extract with cucumber and raspberry extracts. These are botanical ingredients in the creamier formula, not the agents that make the gel foam.

Source: COSMILE Europe: Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Bisabolol

Skin-conditioning ingredient

A skin-conditioning ingredient used in formulas aimed at comfort.

Does not containContains
Read more

Bisabolol has skin-conditioning and soothing roles in cosmetics. It fits UltraCalming's comfort-focused formula, alongside panthenol and its non-foaming cleansing base.

Source: COSMILE Europe: Bisabolol

This is a selection from Dermalogica's US product pages, not the full formulas or a hands-on test. Formulas can change; check the package if a particular ingredient matters to you.

Choosing and using

Which is better if I want to rinse quickly?

Special Cleansing Gel is the straightforward lather-and-rinse choice. UltraCalming also rinses off, but gives you a wipe-off option when that is more convenient.

Which should I consider for combination skin?

Dermalogica recommends Special Cleansing Gel for combination skin. It is the natural starting point if you enjoy a rinse-off lather; choose by texture as well as a skin-type label.

Does UltraCalming contain no fragrant botanicals?

No. It contains lavender, rosemary and lemon extracts. The gel contains lavender, lemon peel, bergamot and citronella oils. If you avoid a particular plant ingredient, compare the package labels.

What if I wear makeup?

Dermalogica says UltraCalming removes light makeup and recommends PreCleanse for heavier makeup. Both product directions begin after PreCleanse, so keep your existing first-cleanse step for a heavier makeup day.

Check current prices

Compare the 8.4 oz / 250 ml size at Dermstore.

Special Cleansing Gel

Check current priceat Dermstore

UltraCalming Cleanser

Check current priceat Dermstore

Sources and method

Based on US manufacturer information, checked 20 October 2026. This is not a hands-on test. Photos are from the brands; ingredient explanations link to their sources. Check the current package for formula changes and the retailer for price, size and availability.