Why Patients And Professionals Prefer Chemical Peels
By Margaret Ancira, as seen in SPA 20/20 — Sept 2005
The never-ending search for the “fountain of youth” has sparked a flurry of new technologies targeting the signs of aging. While procedures such as laser resurfacing, photo rejuvenation, dermabrasion and injectable fillers are supplanting deep chemical peels to minimize wrinkles and sagging skin, superficial and medium depth peels continue to be the treatment of choice in giving skin an overall more youthful appearance by improving its tone and texture. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, chemical peels are the second most common non-surgical cosmetic procedure performed by medical professionals and clinical aestheticians today. And for good reason. This cornerstone of topical treatments offers numerous advantages to both the skin care professional and the patient.
SAFE AND EFFECTIVE
When chemical peels were introduced fifty years ago, the formulations were highly aggressive, single or multiple acid peels in a carrier base effective in triggering the regeneration of new skin cells, but also prone to complications such as irritation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Through research, newer chemical peel formulations have evolved into “skin friendly” blends that include biocompatible lactic and citric acids, buffering agents such as licorice extract (glycyrrhiza glabra) and willow bark to minimize irritation to the skin, and topical antioxidants to infuse skin with restorative nutrients. The combination of ingredients feed and strengthens new skin while exfoliating away dead surface cells. Often the changes occur at a cellular level and aren’t always apparent to the naked eye.
This feature makes superficial chemical peels especially popular with busy patients who are seeking effective treatments that can be done quickly (“lunchtime peel”) with little or no downtime following the procedure. They can walk right back into their daily routine following treatment and the only visible proof is brighter and firmer looking skin, regardless of whether the patient sees visible exfoliation following treatment.
Superficial chemical peels have a proven track record for correcting many difficult skin conditions including acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, psoriasis, and skin fighting degradation from chronological as well as environmental aging. The secret behind their success is versatility. The variety of blends available in the marketplace allows the skin care professional to customize protocols and effectively address specific skin conditions.
For treating acneic skin types, look for a modified Jessner’s solution with ingredients such as kojic acid for tyrosinase-inhibiting action and antibacterial properties. For hyperpigmentation, look for lightening ingredients such as kojic and azaleic acids, L-arbutin, licorice and rumex crispus. Rosacea requires treatment with milder formulations than other conditions to avoid overheating the skin and possibly causing flare ups. Utilizing formulations containing the effective anti-inflammatory ingredients bisabolol, willowherb and willow bark help keep sensitive skin types calm during and after treatment. And for patients seeking skin rejuvenation or sun damage repair, chemical peels with retinol, TCA, chasteberry and soy isoflavones will stimulate cell turnover with minimal irritation and excellent results.
Once the selected chemical peel has been applied to the skin, the newer cells beneath the impacted stratum corneum are able to more effectively absorb beneficial nutrients needed to even skin tone, stimulate cell turnover and rebuild collagen, the skin’s support system, ultimately improving the overall health and appearance of the skin. Following this ‘loosening’ of the stratum corneum is an ideal time to spot treat hyperpigmentation and fine lines with tyrosinase inhibitors, peptides and growth factors, and infuse weakened skin with restorative antioxidants and polyphenols that combat free radical damage. Introducing anti-inflammatory topicals during treatment calm skin sensitized by UV exposure, pollutants and irritating cosmetics. Customize treatments for dry and dehydrated skin with hygroscopic agents such as hyaluronic acid, which attract and retain cellular moisture. Always seal and occlude your protocol with a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Use this final step in your treatment as an opportunity to remind patients that achieving and maintaining a healthy and youthful complexion on the face, hands, neck or chest is impossible if they expose skin to the sun without complete UV protection.
HOME ADVANTAGE
While professional treatments are very effective, the patient’s home care regimen can be of even greater importance. Treatment results can be enhanced and even prolonged when you add a customized home care program before and after the treatment. The combination can help maintain healthy skin and a smooth, clear and radiant complexion as well as:
• prepare skin for treatment
• balance moisture content
• boost collagen production
• help control discoloration
• heal treated areas
• soothe and reduce inflammation
• control oil and acne
• diminish fine lines and wrinkles
One of the most exciting ingredients recently introduced into advanced clinical skin care products for home and professional use is epidermal growth factor, or EGF. The daily use of EGF encourages aging skin to function more like young skin by stimulating increased cell turnover to thicken and strengthen the skin and speed healing when injury does occur.
Topical peptides are another new class of anti-aging ingredients now available. One of these peptides, known as acetyl hexapeptide-3 produces similar antiwrinkle activity as Botoxâ cosmetic injections by relaxing facial muscle contractions that can lead to wrinkles. The skin-tightening effect is immediate and results in a smoother, less furrowed complexion, especially on the forehead and around the eyes. Another, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 penetrates top layers of the stratum corneum to stimulate the production of collagens type I and IV, critical in preserving skin’s youthful characteristics.
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